Shantipur Handloom Weaving
One of Bengal's oldest weaving towns — fine cotton tant sarees with the nakshi and dobby border.
Shantipur, in Nadia district of West Bengal, is one of the oldest and most important handloom towns in the state, weaving fine cotton tant sarees known for a smooth, soft, close weave, a fine count, subtle self-stripes and checks, small jacquard butis, and a thin, neatly finished border — more restrained and refined than the bold-bordered Dhaniakhali or the figured Phulia-Tangail. Dhotis, gamchas and dress fabric are woven alongside.
Craft at a Glance
Origin
Shantipur, West Bengal
Also Known As
Shantipuri saree, Shantipur tant, Fulia-Shantipur weave
Craft Type
Fine cotton handloom saree weaving
Practising Community
The Tanti and Basak weaver communities of Shantipur, organised through very large cooperative societies
Materials
Fine mill cotton yarn, sometimes with a little art silk or zari in the pallu; and reactive dyes in soft and jewel tones.
Known For
Shantipuri tant sarees — fine, smooth cotton with a thin, neat border, subtle stripes and small jacquard butis
Where It's Made
Shantipur and Phulia in Nadia district, West Bengal, on the Bhagirathi
Time to Create
Three to seven days per saree
GI Status
Shantipur Saree is a registered GI of West Bengal
Process Steps
Winding and dyeing the yarn
Fine cotton is wound and dyed for the body, border, butis and pallu.
Warping and sizing
The warp is laid for several sarees, sized, with border colours placed at the selvedges.
Beaming and drafting
The warp is wound onto the loom and drawn through the healds and reed, with a jacquard or dobby rigged for the border and butis.
Weaving the body
The plain or subtly striped body is woven at a fine, even sett on a fly-shuttle pit loom.
Weaving the thin border
The neat border is carried on separate warp threads along each selvedge.
Adding butis and pallu
Small jacquard butis and a striped pallu are woven in with extra weft.
Finishing
The saree is cut apart, checked, lightly starched and folded for the cooperative.
Technique Glossary
Tant
The general Bengali term for a cotton handloom saree.
Shantipuri finish
The smooth, soft, restrained handle and thin, neat border that distinguish a Shantipur saree.
Buti
A small isolated woven motif repeated across the body of the saree.
Dobby
A loom attachment that lifts groups of warp threads to weave small geometric borders and textures.
Count (80s, 100s)
A measure of yarn fineness; the higher the number, the finer the thread and the softer the cloth.
Tanti / Basak
The weaver communities of Bengal who carry the cotton-saree tradition.
Nakshi border
A figured border, here worked fine and thin rather than bold.
A Craft Through Time
Pre-Mughal
An old weaving town
Weaving at Shantipur is established, clothing Bengal's middle class.
Mughal era
A trade centre
Shantipur's cotton cloth holds a strong position in the regional trade and is noted by observers.
19th century
After the muslin collapse
The town's fine-cotton weaving survives the end of the muslin export and continues for the domestic market.
20th century
Cooperatives
Weavers organise into very large cooperative societies for yarn supply and marketing.
2010s
Geographical Indication
Shantipur Saree is registered as a GI of West Bengal.
Present
A vast handloom cluster
Shantipur and Phulia together form one of India's biggest handloom belts, supplying fine cotton sarees nationwide.
Did You Know?
Shantipur and its neighbour Phulia are so densely packed with looms that the two towns together are sometimes said to have more handlooms than any comparable area in India.
Every craft has a story. Every story begins with tradition.