Kundan-Meenakari Jewellery
Gems held by pure gold pressed by hand, backed by enamel fired in a hidden garden of colour.
The traditional gold jewellery of Rajasthan, made by two complementary crafts on one piece: 'kundan' setting, in which gems are held not by claws but by slivers of pure refined gold pressed around them, and 'meenakari', vitreous enamel fired onto the gold, usually on the reverse so the piece is beautiful whether the stones or the enamel face outward.
Craft at a Glance
Origin
Jaipur, Rajasthan
Craft Type
Fine gold jewellery — gem-setting and enamelling
Materials
22–24 carat gold; natural gemstones and uncut 'polki' diamonds; powdered coloured enamel (glass) with metallic oxides; lac resin as a filler and support; fine steel setting tools; a small blowpipe furnace.
Known For
Clawless kundan setting, polki diamonds, translucent 'Jaipur' red enamel, reversible pieces
Time to Create
Weeks to several months for a full necklace set, across many artisans
Process Steps
Making the ghaat
The goldsmith builds the hollow gold skeleton of the piece, with seats for the stones and raised cells for enamel.
Meenakari
The enameller engraves each cell, fills it with ground coloured glass and fires it; colours are applied and fired in order of melting point, with polishing between.
Paadh and kundan setting
Lac is poured into the hollow front to support the stones; the setter presses ultra-pure gold foil around each gem with a tool until it locks in place.
Stringing and finishing
Enamelled beads and clasps are added, the piece is strung on silk, and every surface is given a final polish.
Technique Glossary
A Craft Through Time
Mughal era
Court refinement
Kundan setting and Persian-derived enamelling are perfected in the imperial karkhanas.
1727
Jaipur founded
Sawai Jai Singh II brings jewellers, enamellers and stone-setters to his new city, seeding its jewellery quarter.
19th century
Jaipur enamel
Jaipur becomes famous for a deep translucent red enamel that other centres struggle to reproduce.
Present
World centre
Jaipur remains the leading centre for kundan-meenakari and polki jewellery, supplying bridal markets across India and the diaspora.
Did You Know?
In kundan setting the stones are held purely by 24-carat gold — the metal is soft enough to be pressed around a gem by hand and burnished until it grips, with no prongs at all.
Every craft has a story. Every story begins with tradition.